If this is the wrong section, mods feel free to move her, its a work in progress
The rear and front brakes which came on accords model year 2008 thru the first half 2010
are defective due to brake pad design, material and brake ebd. The rear brakes
due to the ebd bias will burn up at a higher rate that the front brakes. The front brakes
will melt on the rotors causing the steering wheel to shake due to the rotors warping.
For the front brakes there is a TSB
For the rear brakes theres is a TSB for canadian accords ONLY. US Accord owners
may receive a free replacement if their brakes go out this will be dependent on
dealer and honda corporate discretion. There is currently a class action
lawsuit settlement currently under discussion for this issue.
Honda Settles Class-Action Suit Over Brakes
If you opt not to do the front tsb or rear brake swap to the updated brake pads
you may purchase some aftermarket ceramic brake pads which will resolve this issue.
It is currently unclear at present how long the updated rear brakes and front brake pads
Problem: Rocks, pebbles, and road debris can damage A/C condensor. Repair bill ~1000
Solution: Use the odyssey grill or a lower bumper billet to protect a/c condensor. cost ~60
Problem: Windshield is prone to chips and being cracked by debris
Solution: Repair any cracks or chips or replace windshield. Avoid semis
Problem: Paint chips or cracks or peeling. This is caused by the environmentally friendly water based paint.
Solution: Take car back to dealership for repairs, contact honda corporate, protect paint with clear bra,
was car to aleviate issues.
Problem: uneven exhaust on v6 accords
Solution: This is normal
Problem:Front Suspension Noise clunking over larger bumps, wheezing sound when the struts
compressed and decompressed
Solution: Problem affects early production accords, retun to delarship for in warranty repair.
Cold Weather Starts
Problem: Car is difficuly to start, smell of fuel, car not turning over
This is due in part to the small battery in the vehicle as well as time it takes
for fuel pump to prime.
Solution: Replace battery with one that has a higher cca, also prime fuel pump before
starting car. Turn key to position 2 and wait 3 seconds before turning key to position 3
Problem: Car makes a grinding sound when starting especially when it is cold
Solution: Replace actuator on starter if under warranty
Problem: Engine rattles or makes extremely loud noise for 2 seconds on cold start
Solution: There is a tsb for this: TSB
Problem: Battery dies early/Light flickering
Solution: Replace oem battery with one that has higher cca and that is better.
4cyl light flickers A bigger battery will reduce the flickering aka you will notice it less.
6cyl flickers to an extent. HID kits install do not have this issue
Problem: CAI/SRI and V6 accord issues causes engine stumbling, rpms to drop, random revs, cel
Solution: Remove cai/sri
Problem: Heater/hvac, side mirros, seat heaters, high beams stops working. This is due to
an electrical short
Solution: Replace fuse 16
Problem: Oil consumption, aluminum engines burn oil, vtec burns oil,
,pcv, bad break in, leaks, etc
Solution: According to american honda it is normal for a vehicle to burn 1qt every 1k.
Take car to dealership as well as report problem to american honda so they can
do the oil monitoring test. Some 08/09 vehicle engines were not sealed properly
or punched incorrectly by machine making engines during production
which will complicate this issue.
Problem: Engine knocking or making noise
There is no CEL its just noise.
Solution: You may be losing oil, check oil level before engine is
Problem: Manual Transmission 3rd Gear grinds or pops out
Solution: There is a tsb however drivers have reported that this
does not solve the problem completely. Changing the transmission
fluid seems to resolve this issue, a synthetic or semi synthetic
fluid seems to solve the issue however for optimal performance it
is recommended you change the trans fluid every 10 to 15k.
Drivers have reported that gm friction modified synchromesh,
amosil mtl, and redline mtl solves this issue.
Problem: Seats squeak, need readjustment
Solution: Move seat back and forth on a monthly basis. There is a tsb
for the passenger seat on the coupe. Honda canada recognizes the squeaking
seat issue. Try honda USA or dealership for a fix
Sedan EX and up: disable anc mics in front and rear or your sub will blow
Coupe: All trims except ex-l v6 6mt
FYI: Get a battery that can support your audio dreams
Dash kits: metra kit and scosche kit
6.5" speakers all around, custom enclosure for sub or get one on ebay
How to disable A/C in Defrost mode (All Models except EX-L/EX-L V6)
NOTE: This hack cannot be undone in the same manner as it was changed. To return to the factory settings, you must disconnect the battery.
Step 1: Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (you do NOT have to start the engine).
Step 2: Turn the fan knob to the OFF position.
Step 3: Switch to the FACE ONLY vent mode.
Step 4: Turn the temp knob to the COLDEST setting.
Step 5: Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Step 6: Hold down the RECIRCULATION and A/C buttons simultaneously.
Step 7: While holding those two buttons, turn the ignition switch to the ON position again.
Step 8: Keep holding the buttons, and the yellow light on the RECIRCULATION button will begin to flash after a few seconds.
Step 9: Keep holding them down until the yellow light stops flashing/goes solid, then release them.
Step 10: Test it: Turn the fan back on. With the radio off and the fan on the lowest setting, switch to either DEFROST mode and listen carefully for the condenser fan to kick on. Now, push the A/C button. You should hear the condenser fan shut off, which means the hack was successful. If it doesn't shut off, then something wasn't done correctly.
Test your 8G electronics
Those with AUTO Window issue
Problem: when using auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then reverse on its own.
The window control unit need to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
Solution: NOTE:You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's power window switch, not the driver's window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition to ON(ll)
2. Lower the window all the way down with the window switch.
3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door.
Note: Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. DO these steps a total of four times in a row. These steps clear the control unit memory.
4. Turn the ignition switch to lock(0)
5. Push down and hold the power window switch.
6. Turn the ignition switch to on (ll)
7. Release the power window switch.
Note: Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, repeat steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit for up to 3 more times for each series steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep holding the switch for 1 second.
Note: Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying close attention to the 5 seconds time limit. If it still doesn't work, bring it to your dealer
Clutch clicking, squeaking, or creaking
1. There are TWO separate problems that people complain about, and they are very similar in sound/feel to the owner.
* Clutch CLICKING. Distinct, crisp CLICK sound at bottom of pedal travel. Also might experience a more subtle click at top of clutch pedal IF the pedal was fully depressed before returning to the top. The cause: Clutch switch. The clutch switch is used to ensure that the pedal is fully pressed in before starting the car. The top "click" is caused by the upper switch, which <I think> is used for the cruise control - sensing if you've pressed the clutch at all. NO TSB has been released yet, but they expect one eventually. They know of the problem and it does happen in some other models as well (RSX has had a few complaints about it, as has the EL (Canada) and a few TL's).
* Clutch CREAKING or SQUEAKING. More of a creak or muted squeak. The cause: inadequately lubricated linkage between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder. This is where the "replace master cylinder" treatment is applied, ALTHOUGH IS NOT FULLY NECESSARY. Just lubricating the linkage with appropriate grease should take care of the problem for a long time. I think the "replace master cylinder" was overkill from the service departments, as until recently, they didn't know the exact cause of the problem, so replacing everything that might squeak was the only feasible solution.
Problem: CD player/changer not working or broken
Solution: take back to dealership for in warranty repair, replace unit with aftermarket
Problem: Faded Keys: